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Post Info TOPIC: painting bedroom myself


Marc Jacobs

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painting bedroom myself
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i'd like to re-paint my bedroom myself, after paying someone else about $300 to do it before.  he did a great job but the color i picked turned out lot darker than i thought it would be, and i don't want to spend that much again so soon after he did it.  have any of you painted rooms in your homes yourselves, and if so, do you have any tips?  here is what i am wondering: is it better to have more than one person painting?  (i live alone and am not strong enough to move all my furniture myself, so i'll have to ask some of my stronger friends to come over anyway.)  do you all usually go for one uniform color, or do you put trim on the moldings?  i might do a trim around my closet doors.  and just anything you think i should know about painting would be appreciated!    


i saw cricket had some great tips in an earlier post about getting real sheepskin rollers, using a canvas tarp, and getting the blue tape for protecting things instead of masking tape.  i'll definitely follow those recs (thanks, cricket).



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Kenneth Cole

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Hi babe!


As you know, J and I repainted our apt ourselves. Some advice from lessons learned the hard way:


Use good-quality paint. J and I cheaped out and used a lesser-grade brand, and while the color was fine, it took more paint than we thought it should have. It was thinner than some better-quality paint we ended up buying for the bathroom.


That blue masking tape is good, but it isn't perfect. I don't think there is anything that is, but you won't get a completely smudge-free line separating colors (wall and trim, etc.) My suggestion is to paint over the tape using horizontal strokes. I painted over it using vertical strokes, and the line wasn't as clean as when J painted with horizontal strokes over diff parts of the room. ETA: also, if you're going to Janovic for your paint, only get paint there. They are such rip-off artists for tape, rollers, trays, etc. Don't get suckered in -- go to Kmart for that stuff. 


If you have molding (moulding? The type along the walls, not the penicillin type), then the part that sticks out from the wall should be a white semi-gloss, and then the portion of the wall above the sticking out part should be a white matte. (I can't remember if we used the same color white for the ceiling -- we probably did). making the trim a little bit shiny really does make a difference. ETA: also, use semigloss on the windowsills and trim around the windows. It is easier to clean once it is dry (wipe with a damp cloth) than matte. 


Find a color that you like and you think you won't get tired of, and then go one shade (or one step) lighter on the paint chip. That way the color won't be a distraction in the room, and will be easier to work with. You can always bring out the color more with the curtains, bedspread, etc.


Taping and painting one room will probably take all day, but then in the evening it will be dry (thanks, latex!) and you'll be able to move your furniture back in.


If I think of anything more, I'll add it. 



-- Edited by Starstuff at 13:03, 2004-12-27

-- Edited by Starstuff at 13:04, 2004-12-27

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Marc Jacobs

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i painted my apartment myself and it was pretty torturous. starstuff gave really good advice. definitely use good quality paint and use semigloss on any surfaces that are likely to get dirty easily (windowsill, door frames, light switch plate, etc).

also if you are painting the ceiling, you might want to get special ceiling paint. it is formulated so that it doesn't drip.

i think that unless your bedroom is really tiny or unless you are really tall (or have low ceilings), it might be helpful to have a partner. i had a stepstool and an extender for the roller brush, and i still had trouble reaching the ceiling.

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Hermes

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I would get a friend or two to help out - It will not only go faster but will be much more fun!  Have everyone tape, then someone can start on the ceiling while someone else starts 'cutting in' and/or doing the moulding.  Then whomever was painting the ceiling can start in on the walls, following behind whomever is 'cutting in' the corners.

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Marc Jacobs

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thanks for all the great advice, everyone!  it's so helpful to hear.

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ayo


Coach

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I've done this for our basement and living room...and it's no easy feat...I'd rather pay the money but my husband insists on doing it because he thinks it's *fun* ey yi yi...


anyway


I think everything Starstuff wrote pretty much covers it..


I'll just add one very important tip (in case no one else covered it) remove the tap soon after painting. There is nothing more annoying than having the paint peel when you try to remove the tape and then you are stuck trying to touch up the mishap..


 


 



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Dooney & Bourke

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i spent time in college as a painter, so here's my advice:


use benjamin moore paint. it is the best, hands down.  it's easier to work with, covers better, and holds up better than cheaper paint.  if you are doing the ceiling white and want to use a ceiling paint as someone suggested, b.m.'s ceiling paint is pretty inexpensive too.


the key to masking stuff off is to press the tape down really well at the edge.  if you really press it on, no paint will leak through.  the blue tape is 14 day tape, which means you have 14 days from the time you put it on to take if off without damaging the surface.


invest in a good paint brush.  i  would recommend a 2.5" purdy angled brush -- they are $12 ish and it will make the job so much easier than using a crappy brush.  purdy makes good roller covers too --use a 3/8" nap one.


paint the ceiling first, then walls, then trim.  if you cut in (brush the edges) before you roll, the paint blends better and you won't end up seeing the difference b/w brushing and rolling as much.  do one wall at a time -- cut it in and then roll it, then move to the next wall.  if you have two people you can have one rolling and one brushing.


i would recommend using an eggshell finish on the walls (unless you want flat -- then i would use ben. moore's matte finish, which is  a washable flat -- flat paint is a pain on walls when its not washable), flat on ceiling and semi-gloss or satin on the trim.


you don't have to paint the trim white, or a different color from the walls at all.  it depend a lot on the style of your house and what your trim looks like.  basically, you paint it a contrasting color to draw attention to it.  so if you have beautiful woodwork, by all means paint it a contrasting color.  if the trim is nothing special (or you decor is more modern), you can just paint it in to match the walls.  (i actually love this look -- its very rich and enveloping to have a room all one color.  sometimes i do the ceiling too)


another tip for removing the tape -- run an exacto knife along the edge of it b/f you pull it off.   it slices any bond the paint on the wall has with the paint on the tape so you get a clean line.


as far a choosing color, ben. moore now has color samples.  they're little jars of paint that cost $3-5 so you can try the color out before you invest in a whole gallon.  i usually use the paint chips to narrow my color choices down (and make sure you look at the chips in the room at different times of day -- its amazing how a color can change b/w the paint store and your house, night and day), then i buy a few samples and put some on the wall.  (if paint samples on the wall, make sure you paint over them with primer or white (or whatever color the wall is) b/f you paint.  if you don't the spot will be darker than the rest of the wall and really hard to hide.


hope this helps -- have fun painting.



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Marc Jacobs

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hey, thanks everyone -- i'd never have thought of half this stuff on my own!

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